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Summer 2004
Quarterly Newsletter
Earthly Elements
Summer is here and boy do I need a vacation! It has indeed been a very stressful 2004 so far. While it's all been very exciting (house hunting, preparing for the move and moving, all happening at the onset of my season) I am a bit worn. Perhaps we will find some time to get away, rest and have some fun!
This month, the info may seem a bit heavy, however, we'll cover some very important issues. First up is the article on nutrition for your soil. Last month we talked about the types of soil there are, this month we'll tell you what can be done to help improve the soil you have. Next up, we lighten things up with a piece on "How to use Art in the Garden".
The last and longest article involves my personal experience and research of the potentially deadly Baldface Hornet and what to do if YOU get stung...hope you find it helpful!
by Justin Hancock
 Plants, like other living things need nutrients to keep growing. Although most fertilizer packages list three plant nutrients-nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium (N-P-K, in that order) there are many more. Here's what the most important ones do:
Nitrogen spurs on leafy growth. Given too much nitrogen, some plants will not flower; given too little, plants may have pale-green or yellowish older leaves.
Phosphorus encourages good blooming and root development. Too little phosphorus causes stunted plant growth and purplish younger leaves.
Potassium is directly involved in photosynthesis (the process of converting sunlight to energy). It also encourages disease resistance and sturdy stems. Without enough potassium, a plant may have yellowish or spotted older leaves.
Calcium encourages strong cells and root growth. Environmental conditions, such as heat or drought, may make it difficult for some plants to absorb calcium. If plants don't get enough calcium, they may drop blossoms, show yellow edges on young leaves, or have curled leaves.
Sulfur is necessary for the formation of chlorophyll (the green pigment in plants that converts light to energy). It promotes healthy roots and lowers soil pH. Without enough sulfur, a plant's new leaves may appear yellowed. Deficiencies are uncommon, however.
Magnesium is a component of chlorophyll. Acidic, sandy soils often contain less magnesium than alkaline, humus-rich, or clay soils. Too much nitrogen or potassium may make it difficult for plants to absorb magnesium. Without enough magnesium, plants may have yellowish older leaves with green veins.
Manganese is involved in the formation of chlorophyll and helps plants use nitrogen. It is more available to plants in acidic soils than in alkaline soils. Without enough manganese, plants may have yellowish older leaves with green veins.
Iron is more available to plants if the soil is acidic. Lowering the soil pH (by adding organic matter or Sulfur) may be more beneficial than adding more iron. Since iron is also associated with chlorophyll, a lack of iron may result in stunted plant growth and younger leaves turning yellow. The yellowing often starts at the edges and spreads inward.
Chlorine is important to plant metabolism and influences water movement within the plant. Too little chlorine is rare. Too much chlorine is more common, especially around swimming pools, and results in brown leaf tips. Entire leaves may turn yellow and fall from the plant.
Zinc helps the plant use sugars, which influence plant size and growth rate. Without enough zinc in the soil, the plant leaves may be smaller than usual or have puckered-looking edges.
Boron influences how plants use and absorb other nutrients. Too little boron in the soil may cause dead or deformed new growth or unusually brittle leaves. Plants require very little boron, however.
Copper is a part of many proteins and is important to plant reproduction. When plants lack copper, their younger leaves may be misshapen or dark blue-green.
Molybdenum influences how plants use nitrogen. Plants require only minute amounts, but without enough of this mineral, plants may look as if they're nitrogen deficient with pale-green or yellowish older leaves.
To be sure your soil contains a good balance of nutrients, it's important to have it tested by your state or county extension office.
Folk, fine art and American gardens fit together well because they're both relaxed in spirit and not bound by tradition. Like any garden accessory, though, whatever your style of art that suits your taste, can either enhance the overall composition of your garden or overwhelm its surroundings with a "look at me" attitude. Here are some ways to use art to your best advantage.
Backdrop it carefully. Put it against something like trees or shrubs so it isn't lost in open space. That is, unless the piece itself is so big or striking that it demands a place of its own.
Don't go overboard, unless that's the point of your garden. Normally, a few great pieces of garden art will have better visual impact than a lot of pieces of marginal quality. Use art as punctuation marks, to draw the eye to particular points in the garden rather than adding to the clutter. Some gardeners really want an exuberant, over the-top look. If your garden is about excess, if the plants are everywhere and spilling out of pots, then you can really play off that by putting art pieces everywhere.
Forget about using pedestals and other formal devices with some types of art. Both folk and fine art creations are usually organic and look like they belong outside anyway, so placing them right down among the plants will make them stand out. This is especially pleasing if the piece is an animal you would expect to see among the foliage.
Keep taste in mind. Be considerate of others tastes. Outrageous or puzzling pieces might be best in the backyard, where your neighbors don't have to be confronted with them every day.
If you'd like to check out some very cool art for the garden, go to weirdgardens.com for a look at what one artist is doing to "enhance" her space.
I write this article because of two encounters that I had with these really nasty hornets last season. One encounter was so bad that it sent me to the hospital and therefore, prompted this research.
Description
The Baldfaced Hornet, (Dolichovespula maculata) is actually an oversized yellowjacket. They are among the most aggressive of all wasps, especially if their nest is disturbed or threatened. They are however, beneficial, capturing other insects, sometimes including other yellowjackets, to feed to their larvae. In appearance, they're stocky and excellent flyers. The actual size varies but is usually 3/4" to 1" in length. They are mostly black in color, with prominent white or pale yellow markings.
Life Cycle
Baldfaced hornets are social insects with queens that lay fertilized eggs, workers that are sterile females, and males that come from unfertilized eggs in late summer. Only queens overwinter. In spring a queen builds a nest from chewed up cellulose, and lays one egg in each compartment or cell as she builds it. She feeds the larvae protein from other insects, and flower nectar. When the first workers emerge a month later, they take over feeding and nest building, while she continues to lay eggs. Eventually there will be 3-5 combs or clusters (of several hundred cells each) which are attached one below the other. The nest will have 100-400 workers at its most active time. Later, when the colony is declining, larger cells are built to raise queens and males. Newly hatched queens and males leave the nest to mate. The queen that started this year's nest, the workers, and the males all die. Only the new queens survive the winter by hibernation in sheltered places.
Nesting Habits
In spring, Baldfaced Hornets build pear-shaped paper nests, commonly suspended from tree limbs or found in low shrubbery (see lower right photo in left column below). On occasion, they will build nests inside buildings, i.e. attics, sheds or other unoccupied areas. Their nests are exposed in fall after the leaves drop. By this time the hornets are dead or dying, and the nest will not be reused. The size of the nest varies and can get bigger than a basketball, with the entrance hole usually located at or toward the bottom.
Help! I've Been Stung!
Typically, two hornets remain outside the nest hole acting as "guards." When alarmed, they alert the other members, who will attack en masse. This can result in a person's receiving hundreds of extremely painful, potentially deadly (if stung in the face, head or neck) stings at one time. Stinging involves the injection of a protein venom that causes pain and other reactions.
Hornets, wasps, and bumblebees can sting multiple times because they're able to pull out their stinger without injury to themselves, meaning that the stinger is not left in your skin. Below are some tips that you should consider if you do get stung.
General First-Aid for Bites and Stings
1. Wash bite/sting area well with soap and water.
2. Place an ice pack or cold compress on the wound intermittently (I5 minutes on and 15 minutes off). Never place ice directly on the skin.
3. Elevate and rest the wounded area to decrease swelling. DO NOT USE HEAT!
4. If a tetanus vaccination has not been given within the last five to seven years, consult a physician.
5. Normal reaction: within minutes a small red area appears at the site of injury, gradually surrounded by a whitish and a reddish flare. A whelt or raised area forms that may itch, be hot to touch, and feel irritated. These symptoms usually subside in a few hours except from the bites or stings of a few creatures.
6. Look for and observe signs of a severe allergic reaction such as wheezing, difficulty breathing or rapid, severe swelling, abdominal cramps, vomiting, dizziness, chest tightness, hoarseness, or blue discoloration to lips. If these signs occur, go to an emergency room or consult a physician immediately.
7. Victims especially at risk for complications are children under three years of age, heart, diabetic, elderly or debilitated patients as well as persons with allergies. Multiple stings/bites, especially to the neck and head, can be serious and even deadly.
8. Do not handle biting or stinging creatures. However, when possible, save the specimen for later identification. Small creatures can be killed by dropping in scalding water or freezing without changing their appearance. Emergency rooms do not like LIVE specimens! Identification may be important for treatment and for predicting diseases these creatures may carry.
Earthenjoy FlowerScaping L.L.C. ©2004
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